Ke'te Kesu'

Ke’te Kesu’

March 08, 2013 / by / 0 Comment

From all interesting places to visit in Tana Toraja, Ke’te’ Kesu’ is the most complete settlement. The site consists of a compound of houses and granaries, a burial place, ceremonial grounds, ricefields and water buffalo pasture. The cultural landscape around Ke’te’ Kesu’ makes this area one of the most beautiful places in Tana Toraja. Ke’te Kesu’ compound comprises 6 traditional tongkonan houses and 12 granaries. The houses and granaries are laid out in the traditional arrangement and one of the houses serves as a museum. To the north, at a distance of about 50 meters, lies the ceremonial ground, displaying more than 20 megaliths. Entry fee: 20,000 rp per person. How to get there? Jump on a Bolu-Ke’te Kesu’-La’bo pete-pete and ask the driver to drop you off at the turn-off to the burial site (ask “kiri decat di jalan Ke’te Kesu’”). From there on it’s a 20 minute walk.

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Palawa'

Palawa’

March 07, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

Another traditional village is Palawa’, a compound of traditional houses and granaries. In total there are 11 tongkonan and 15 granaries. Like many Toraja compounds, the Palawa’ houses and granaries are arranged in two parallel rows aligned east-west direction. The houses face north, while the granaries face south. The entrance is situated in the western side of the compound. The ceremonial ground lies about 350 meters to the east. Entry fee: 20,000 rp! How to get there? Jump on a Bolu-Sa’dan pete-pete and ask the driver to drop you off at the burial site (ask “kiri decat di Palawa’”). It is located next to the main road.

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Buntu Pune'

Buntu Pune’

March 07, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

Formerly, the sites of Buntu Pune’ and Rante Karassik belonged to one integrated settlement. Buntu Pune’ was the dwelling compound and Rante Karassik was the ceremonial ground. Although these sites are now separated due to recent development, the sites still function as they did in the past. You will find 7 granaries and 2 big traditional tongkonan built around 1880. All are owned by the family of Pong Maramba, an important coffee farmer in Tana Toraja. On a hill behind the granaries you can see the the grave of Pong Maramba. It is said this was the first building in Tana Toraja made of concrete. Entry fee: free! How to get there? The easiest way is to jump on an ojek or sitor in town. It’s located just outside of town.

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Rante Karassik

Rante Karassik

March 07, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

The site of Rante Karassik is a ceremonial ground on a sloping hill just outside Rantepao including several big megaliths. This site is actually a part of the Buntu Pune traditional settlement. Until today, the Buntu Pune people still use the ground for certain ceremonies, in particular those connected with death. Since Rante Karassik is situated quite far from the Buntu Pune compound, the two sites appear to be quite separate. Uniting them is no longer possible, since recent development has resulted in a dense population of the area in between. Entry fee: free! How to get there? The easiest way is to jump on an ojek or sitor in town. It’s located just outside of town.

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Suaya

Suaya

March 06, 2013 / by / 0 Comment

In Suaya, in the south-east of Tana Toraja, surrounded by ponds and rice paddies, you will find the tombs of the royal family of Sangalla’. Since the royal family didn’t allow any other families to have graves closeby, the giant rock of Suaya just has a few graves. But the huge amount of old Tau Tau (40-50), realistic looking wooden ancestor statues placed on several big and small balconies, shows the wealth of the family. On the right side of the rock you will find stairs. Go up for a nice view over the royal rice paddies. Also find a small museum on the right side where skulls & bones and some old wooden coffins can be seen. Some of them are shaped as buffalos. Go a little further on the road in the direction of Sangalla’ and Makula’ and you will find the royal ceremonial grounds on your left side, containing several strangely shaped megaliths. Entry fee: 20,000 rp. How to get there? Jump on a Makale bound Kijang. Just before Makale, the driver will ask you to leave the vehicle. At that place you are able to take on a pete-pete to Sangalla’. From there on, travel by ojek to Suaya.

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Bori' Parinding

Bori’ Parinding

March 06, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

On the road from Rantepao to Batutumonga, in the middle of stunning rice paddies, you will find the site of Bori’ Parinding. It is a combination of ceremonial grounds and burials. The ceremonial ground is an open space used for traditional ceremonies, including rituals for the dead and thanksgiving. More than a hundred megaliths stand on the ceremonial ground, each representing a feast of merit performed in the past by a person of high status. Human remains are placed in stone chambers carved out of huge stone boulders, which lies scattered around the ceremonial ground. There are five tongkonan compound spread around the area. Bamboo is now planted in some places around the ceremonial ground to replace the extinct bamboo forest of the traditional settlement. In the middle of the bamboo trees there’s some baby graves cut out of a tree. Entry fee: 20,000 rp. How to get there? Jump on a Bori’ bound pete-pete and ask the driver to drop you off at the burial site (ask “kiri decat di Bori’ Parinding”). It is located next to the main road.

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Lo'ko' Mata

Lo’ko’ Mata

March 05, 2013 / by / 0 Comment

In the mountains of Batutumonga you will find the burial site of Lo’ko’ Mata.  You’ll find 20-30 burial chambers cut out of one giant rock. Although it’s not really common at Lo’ko’ Mata, you will see a couple of Tau Tau, realistic looking wooden ancestor statues, lined up on a small balcony and a nice big buffalo head cut out of the rock. Walk around the big rock. On the left side you will find an open grave. The door to the grave is only 80x80cm but the actual grave inside measures 2m x 2m x 1m and is big enough for several coffins. At Lo’ko’ Mata you will also find a couple of smaller megaliths. Entry fee: free! How to get there? Jump on a Bolu-Batutumonga pete-pete and ask the driver to drop you off at the burial site (ask “kiri decat di Lo’ko’ Mata”). It is located next to the main road.

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Pa'piong Duku Bai

Recipe of the week: Pa’piong Duku Bai

March 01, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

Pa’piong Duku Bai is a classic Torajan dish usually prepared for all large ceremonies like funerals and weddings. We use a cooking method dating back from the beginning of time. For this recipe we prepare the dish in a type of bamboo that is softer than the one used for construction. Ingredients 500 g pork 500 g serr’akko leaves (*) 2 spring onions (cut into 5 cm strips) 5 shallots (cut thinly) 5 garlic cloves (cut thinly) 10 medium sized chilies 1 cube of beef stock powder Pinch of salt and pepper 2 lengths of bamboo cut to 0.5 m (including 1 closed end and 1 open!) 2 banana leaves (*) Serr’akko leaves Serr’akko leaves, also known as Mayana leaves in Indonesian language, can be found in the jungle of Toraja. It is a wild vegetable similar to the nettle family which gives the pork a distinctive flavour and aroma. Preparation 1/ Cut up the pork and place it with all the ingredients in a large bowl. 2/ Mix all ingredients up with your hands. 3/ Wash out the bamboo tubes and place the pork mixture gently into them. Make sure to give the bottom of the tube a tap on …

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Sitor

Do you know… how to get around in Rantepao & Toraja?

March 01, 2013 / by / 0 Comment

Pete-pete Pete-petes are the blue and yellow minivans you see all over town. They all start from Bolu market. Their routes include: Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Alang-Alang (3,000 rp) – Salu (5,000 rp) Bolu – Lempo (10,000 rp) – Batutumonga (15,000 rp) Bolu – Nanggala (5,000 rp) Bolu – Palawa (3,000 rp) – Sadan (5,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Kete Kesu (3,000 rp) – La’bo (5,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Kete Kesu (3,000 rp) – La’bo (5,000 rp) – Randanbatu (7,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Lolai (10,000 rp) – Pangala (30,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Parinding (5,000 rp) – Bori (7,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Siguntu (5,000 rp) Bolu – Rantepao (2,000 rp) – Tikala (5,000 rp) All prices are per person. Take note that pete-petes only leave when they are full, which sometimes can take an hour or more. Kijang Shared Kijangs (also known as bemos) drive between 6:00 and 20:00 from Bolu via Rantepao to Makale and back. You can recognize them by their yellow license plate. Just halt one on the main road from Rantepao …

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Pasar Bolu

Pasar Bolu – Bolu’s Buffalo Market

February 27, 2013 / by / 1 Comment

Every six days it’s market day in Bolu, a small village located about 1 km from the center of Rantepao. Pasar Bolu is a unique traditional Torajan public market that draws crowds from all over Tana Toraja. You can go there for the usual stuff like fruit & vegetables, fish and household stuff, but also for Torajan coffee, traditional Torajan spices (pamarassan…) or traditional Torajan cakes & candy. But the largest part of the market is reserved for buffalos and pigs. Hundreds of buffalos and hundreds of pigs are on sale, including the infamous and very expensive Tedong Bonga. People come from all over Toraja to sell their animals. For most animals this is their last stop before they head to a funeral to get sacrificed. Click here for a schedule of Bolu’s Buffalo Market days. How to get there? Jump on a northern bound Kijiang. Bolu Market is their final destination. The Kijiangs will take you there for 2,000 rp only. View Larger Map

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